Exploring the North Cornwall Coast: From Hartland Quay to Port Isaac
This summer, my close friend Hana and I walked the South West Coast Path from Hartland Quay to Port Isaac. Although I have been holidaying in Cornwall since I was a small child and have never lost my appreciation for its contrasting rolling hills, sheer-sided cliffs, hidden coves, and sweeping sandy beaches, I had never explored this particular stretch of the North Cornwall coastline. I couldn’t wait to discover what lay ahead.
Hana has spent the last few years recovering from long COVID, so a week of walking would be the ultimate test of her progress. Knowing this section of the coast path has a reputation as one of the most challenging, and with my own tendency to stray from the route in search of interesting things to see, we chose the longest itinerary with the shortest daily mileages. It gave us plenty of time to enjoy each day at our own pace, and that proved to be a wise decision.
After a long drive down from the Lake District, we felt rewarded simply by arriving in Hartland Quay. Not knowing the area, we were blown away by just how striking the spot was. It featured an excess of spectacularly folded and faulted rocks wrapping round a beautiful cove. The formations are known as the Crackington Formation, dating back 320 million years, and show both the immense power of ancient tectonic collisions and marine erosion.
We spent our time before and after dinner walking around absorbing the impressive features, as well as scrambling over some of the rocks and looking in rock pools.
As we were by the sea, it would be rude not to mark the start of our trip by having a little dip in the water too.
Day 1: Morwenstow to Hartland Quay
We had some interesting weather to kick off the week! The rain luckily died off within the first few hours but the 50pmh gusts made some of the days walking exceedingly exciting. A reminder that walking poles are useful for more than just hills.
Other than the excitement of staying on our feet, we spent the day enjoying the beauty of the dramatic sheer-sided cliffs against the crashing waves of the sea.
We’d chosen to walk the normal Hartland Quay to Morwenstow section in reverse, so our first stop was merely minutes into our day at Hawker’s Hut. It is a rustic shelter built into the cliff by vicar and poet Robert Hawker. The shelter was primarily made from scavenged timber from old shipwrecks and was used as an escape for writing poetry, smoking and meditating. Inside we found an endearing envelope of letters to a girl called Ida. Ida holidays here from London and simply left a letter there hoping for replies. Charming!
After passing Marsland Beach and sadly realising that the weather was too choppy to swim, we stopped and sheltered from the wind at Ronald Duncan’s Hut. This shelter was built on an old lookout point in the 1960s, once used as a writer’s escape and now open daily as a shelter for walkers.
We were also greeted with two particularly lovely waterfalls which dropped onto the beach. The first was at Welcombe Mouth Beach, where we enjoyed not only the spray of the waterfall but also some rather fantastic sea foam. The second, even more spectacular waterfall was near the end of our day at Speke’s Mill Mouth and boasted a rather gorgeous multi-tiered cascade. The high winds meant that, on occasion, the waterfall appeared to be flowing the wrong way.
The day treated us to a healthy number of stairs to kick-start the legs into action. A particularly memorable leg burner for us was a seemingly relentless set around Litter Mouth. As we were doing the day in reverse, we were then treated to a much gentler finish back into Hartland Quay, where we watched more sea foam whipped up by the powerful gusts and swell of the sea.
Day 2: Morwenstow to Bude
We were off to a good start with not only sunshine but a breeze that was no longer trying to knock us off our feet.
The going today felt much gentler and rolling too (other than one hill that seemed to keep going).
Our first little stop of the day was at Higher Sharpnose Point – a wonderful panorama here along with a lovely little lookout.
Continuing on, our next stop was at Duckpool Beach. We had bookmarked this beach for a possible swim, but hitting it at high tide with a large swell meant it was too rough. Instead, we treated ourselves to a most delicious slice of apple cake from a pop-up café van and sat by the sea listening to the mesmerising sound of pebbles being dragged in and out by the waves.
After a failed swim at Duckpool Beach, I was rewarded with a successful sea dip and body surf at Sandy Mouth. The sea had some strong rip currents, so I was careful to stay at a depth where I could put my feet down and stay in control. This beach was also lifeguarded with three people on duty, and with just myself in the water I was in good hands. The beach itself has some interesting rocky outcrops which made for a nice spot for a break.
From here, we definitely felt that the height of the day was behind us and that we were mainly downhill to Bude. This meant we still had time and energy for another stop at Northcott Mouth to wander along the dramatic folded and faulted rocks, showcasing the layers of sandstone, mudstone and shale. I particularly enjoyed a feature with two small caves making an excellent nostril-like snout.
Then downhill to an ice cream on the beach at Bude, followed by some front crawl lengths in Bude Sea Pool – a fantastic resource for swimmers in the area.
Finally, we finished the day passing some charming colourful beach huts to our accommodation with the lovely Saf, who gave us some vital advice: keep the sea on the right for our trip!
Day 3: Bude to Crackington Haven
Leaving Bude in the sunshine, we were greeted with a particularly gentle start along the canal and across the wide grassy tops. After stopping to watch the surf and enjoy a shortbread and coffee at Widemouth Sand, we carried on through a lovely wooded section with a babbling brook that momentarily transported us to a rainforest, before arriving at Wanson Mouth Beach where the first of the real inclines of the day began.
The route today, still looking down on gorgeous coves, had the addition of a number of tree tunnels adding to its charm. It really did feel incredibly green against the tropical emerald and turquoise paradise of the sea in the sunshine. Castle Point was a particularly beautiful stretch that showed off the vivid contrast of both colours.
For those who like to deviate from the route, there are lots of options to break off down to the sea and explore (some easier than others). We chose a particularly steep and messy path down to explore a scrade near Chipman’s Cliff and were delighted to find an idyllic pebbled beach with a small waterfall and a rustic hut.
After the final climbs and stairs of the day, we relaxed at Pencannow Point, soaking up the sun and looking down on the caves and sea crashing at Great Barton Strand before our final descent to Crackington Haven.
We were absolutely delighted by the charming inn at Crackington Haven and, as it was positioned so beautifully close to the beach, we changed and went straight back out to have a play in the sea – diving over and under the waves like kids and trying to dodge the incredible number of jellyfish (luckily none with a noticeable sting).
After enjoying the evening light through the window at the inn over dinner and wine, we headed back out onto the beach to soak up the golden hour.
The poem on the wall at Crackington Haven by Trevor H Caldicott was so charming I had to note it down:
There’s a Haven down in Cornwall
Where the tide runs up the beach
There are lanes with honeysuckle
Which is seldom out of reach
There are cliffs with fingers pointing
Ever outwards to the sea
And the cries of seagulls calling
Up to me
Oh it’s down along in Cornwall
Where a little cottage stands
With the thatch about the windows
That are facing to the sands
When the sun goes down in splendour
And my cares are things apart
Then I find the soul of Cornwall
In my heart
There’s a valley down in Cornwall
Where the road winds up the hill
There are flowers in profusion
And the tinkle of a rill
There’s a wealth of light and colour
As the sun sinks in the west
And I’m thanking God for Cornwall
At its best!
Day 4: Crackington Haven to Boscastle
We started with a few morning climbs to get the legs going amongst hedgerows, leafy arches and lush green landscape. The first at Bray’s Point, then Cambeak Point looking back on the beautiful Crackington Haven, then another looking onto Little Strand.
We decided that the climbs of the day weren’t clearly going to be enough, so we deviated from the route and dropped down to the Strangles. We followed a lovely winding path down, ending in a steep staircase and rope aid over a few rocks at the bottom.
This dramatic and remote beach gets its ominous name from the treacherous nature of the local coastline – dangerous strong currents and jagged rocks metaphorically strangling navigation. For us it felt far less ominous as we looked out at Samphire Rock stack and the Northern Door Arch. A particularly beautiful spot where we enjoyed a snack break and some skimming in between the waves with excellent flat round pebbles. Hana bested me!
Leaving the strangles we next went over High cliff. As the name suggests the highest point on the Cornwall section of the South West Coast path which definitely created a more mountainous feel to the day.
We were disappointed we hadn’t seen any wild goats around the Strangles, which the guidebook had hinted at, but as we dropped down from High Cliff past Rusey Beach we were greeted by fresh goat droppings and the pungent scent of billy goats. Their smell is to attract females, and during the breeding season they even deliberately urinate on their own beards and front legs to further try to impress. After smelling them for a while, we suddenly spotted their horns protruding through the vegetation as they slowly grazed their way across the hillside in the sun.
After an abundance of steps and zigzags down to Rusey Beach, we opted for a lovely lunch spot overlooking a gorgeous large cove at Gull Rock.
More climbs were still on the cards for the day at Beeny Cliff and Pentargon Cove, along with stops to try and spot birds on the cliffs – possibly even peregrine falcons. If you’re bird lovers, you’ll be in for a treat across the whole walk. I am fortunate that Hana works for the RSPB, so she was sharing her knowledge of birds along the route. The newest addition to the “vault” was a stonechat, which makes a recognisable whistle followed by the sound of stones clacking together.
The day finished on the simply stunning Penally Point, looking down on Boscastle Harbour – a truly incredible viewpoint. This may have been my favourite day of the walk.
I’d also heard there used to be a Victorian tidal swimming pool, but when we went to check it out we found it is now eroded and sadly only a foot deep. Instead of a dip here, we watched a great blowhole named the Devil’s Bellows. The fault line and cave running through Penally Point cause the blowhole, which will eventually erode over the years until a new island is formed in the entrance to the harbour.
Day 5: Boscastle to Tintagel
Today’s walk was going to be a very short day. Originally, we’d chosen this in case either of us needed a rest. To our delight, we were both full of energy and mischief, so we decided instead of having a restful day we would have a day of side quests.
After the first climb of the day, we already deviated very slightly off the route to Willapark and its coast watch tower to enjoy the views over Western Blackapit Bay. As we were leaving, we were greeted by one of the very friendly wild ponies who are there for natural grazing of the area.
Continuing on the route, we came across the very beautiful Lady’s Window – an incredibly striking rock arch, definitely worth a stop to lap up the impressive formation and scenic views from it.
On reaching the Rocky Valley, our second side quest took us off the coast path following the river (as advised by the lovely lady in the bakery in Boscastle). The best section is only a short diversion from the path to some overgrown ruins and labyrinth petroglyphs carved into the slate rock.
This small side quest turned into a rather beefy side quest as we extended it by some distance to Neptune’s Glen to see the iconic waterfall there. This, more sensibly, might be worth a separate trip on a rest day, but we enjoyed the excursion.
Finally back at Rocky Valley, we stopped for a swim in the beautifully carved-out pools with the waves crashing further down.
Lunch was taken above Elephant Rock arch between Bossiney Haven and Benoath Cove, in the company of our new herring gull friend.
Arriving in Tintagel, we paid to head over the Sky Bridge to explore Tintagel Castle – incredible vistas as we wandered around the remains before dropping back down to Tintagel Haven to visit Merlin’s Cave, a tidal cavern said to be where the legendary wizard once dwelled.
And with that, we had managed to turn our shortest day into one of our longest. We certainly enjoyed our chippy tea!
Day 6: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Our last day began as we started, with the wind blowing sheets of rain into our face. The terrain itself started more gently, passing a lovely tall stack, then on past Trebarwith Strand that teases you with a scattering of caves. Sadly, we were unable to explore as the tide was coming in and the lifeguards had red-flagged the beach. Worth an explore, I’m sure, if you hit this at low tide.
Backways Cove was the next gem, boasting some interesting-looking rock formations and caves. I should have stopped here to try and investigate this cove further, but the weather at that point in the day kept us moving.
After an easier start, the rest of the day was back to a series of ascents and descents. Keeping to our theme of the week, we chose to add an additional ascent by dropping down in the hope of exploring Tregardock Beach. We had sadly mis-timed our quest and, although sections of the beautiful beach were still uncovered, access was via protruding rocks that had already been swallowed by the high tide. A great viewpoint though, and a great excuse for a cake and scone stop.
After Tregardock Beach and a crumbly bit of coast, we reached Jackets Point – a dramatic and impressive chasm – before continuing along past more coves to Port Isaac.
We celebrated the finish of our fantastic walk with an ice cream, or at least I did. I know seagulls have a reputation as gangsters, but I didn’t realise they were partial to ice cream! With one precise swoop from nowhere, Hana’s entire ice cream was gone. Not quite the same friendly encounter we’d had further back along the coast.
After our last enjoyable dinner of the trip, we headed back along the coast to Port Gaverne for a swim and to explore some caves, now the tide was on its way out.
A fabulous week, over too soon … until next time, Cornwall.
Ready to discover the North Cornwall coastline?
We offer 2 holidays walking between Westward Ho! and St Ives on the North Cornwall section of the South West Coast Path. Firstly we have the 80 miles from Westward Ho! to Padstow – Shelley and Hana covered some of this – followed by the 64 miles from Padstow to St Ives. Email us at [email protected] or call us on 017687 72335 and we’ll find your perfect stretch of coatline.
