Celebrating 60 Years of the Pennine Way: A Journey of Laughter and Landscapes
It was a swift turnaround. After arriving back from our family camping holiday in the French Alps, we had less than 24 hours to wash clothes and re-pack for our Pennine Way walking trip.
This year my husband Neil, and our youngest son Monty had decided to join me – making it a complete change to two weeks camping. We were all looking forward to it!
We chose to walk part of the Pennine Way as it’s a route I help to book in the Operations team and, as a family, we had never explored the Cheviot Hills. The Pennine Way was opened 60 years ago, on 24 April 1965 and so it seemed fitting that we celebrate this iconic walk. We decided on the northern five day walking section from Greenhead to Kirk Yetholm. The starting point was fairly close to home and suited the time we had available.
We arrived at the Greenhead Hotel and enjoyed a lovely meal whilst excitedly checking our guidebook and map to review the first day’s route. The next morning, we felt well-rested after a good night’s sleep in comfy beds – a real treat from camping mats! The staff took great care of us, and we all enjoyed a delicious breakfast.
The weather was slightly damp and cool, but it was a welcome change after experiencing 38 degrees in France.
Day 1: Greenhead to Twice Brewed
The first day’s walking was about seven miles. We wondered – if we made good time – whether we could visit to Vindolanda, the Roman Fort, by catching the AD122 bus from The Sill at Twice Brewed. So we set off with this in mind.
We quickly left the Greenhead Hotel behind, walking along a narrow lane that ran parallel to the train line. After crossing Tipalt Burn, we made our way up to the ruins of Thirlwall Castle. Originally built in the 12th century, the castle was later improved by John Thirlwall, who used stones from Hadrian’s Wall. It provided protection for his family for the next 300 years. Local legend tells of a secret tunnel that once connected Thirlwall Castle to Blenkinsopp Castle – two miles away, but we didn’t find it!
After exploring the ruins, we headed towards Walltown, where we found an Information Centre with a small shop and public toilets. Passing the old Whinstone Quarry, we climbed up onto Walltown Crags and finally reached Hadrian’s Wall. This is an impressive section of the wall, and we paused at the remains of a Roman turret.
Though the view from the top was misty, we could still make out the wall snaking ahead – dipping down and rising back up between grassy hillocks.
Our next stop was Cawfields Quarry, now flooded, which makes for a lovely picnic spot. It also has toilets and a useful cold-water tap for refilling bottles. Quarrying began here in the early 1900’s, cutting through Hadrian’s Wall to access the Whin Sill dolerite, also known as Whinstone – a hard igneous rock ideal for road building and aggregates. The quarry was closed in 1952 due to pressure from preservationists who sought to protect the Roman wall.
Leaving the quarry, we saw the edge of Whin Sill ahead as we climbed to the highest point on Hadrian’s Wall: Winshields Crag, at 345m (1132ft). Had the weather been clearer, we might have caught a glimpse of the Cheviot Hills to the north -but that would have to wait for another day.
We passed plenty of cows along the way- giving a few a wide berth, especially those with calves or a nearby bull- before finally descending to Twice Brewed, where we looked around The Sill visitor centre. It would have made a perfect lunch stop, but with a bus to Vindolanda about to depart, we hopped on board and spent the afternoon immersed in Northumbrian Roman history.
I had visited Vindolanda as a child, though I couldn’t remember the museum. This time, I was struck by the incredible artefacts on display, all found on-site. It’s well worth a visit if you have the time.
Day 2: Twice Brewed to Bellingham
After a lovely evening at the Twice Brewed Inn, we felt refreshed and ready for our second day. With more than twice as many miles ahead of us compared to yesterday, we were eager to get started straight after breakfast. We collected our excellent packed lunches – our chosen sandwiches plus a great selection of extras, including homemade cake!
We retraced our steps to Steel Rigg, where we had finished the previous day, and headed east along the trail following Hadrian’s Wall. As we walked along the trail, dodging yet more cows, Neil was reminded of old climbing adventures while we crossed the top of Peel Crags, we carefully peered down to the see the rocks below. On approaching the iconic Sycamore Gap, more recently made famous for the absence of its beloved Sycamore tree, we are encouraged to see a few shoots have now sprouted from the old stump – perhaps a potential replacement one day.
Shortly before Housesteads Roman fort we left Hadrian’s Wall and turned northwards across open fields. Nearing the woods, we were delighted to spot a hare – probably a young one, so known as a leveret. At first, we worried it might be unwell as it hopped straight towards us, seemingly unaware we were there, before carrying on its way.
The landscape began to change as we reached the grassy Haughton Common, where we paused by the woods for lunch. Time to tuck into our scrummy sandwiches and a slice of homemade tiffin cake!
Climbing again to the aerial mast on Ealingham Rigg, we were rewarded with sweeping views: ahead, the edge of Bellingham just visible; behind, a wide panorama of the ground we had already covered. From there it was mostly downhill into the town.
Bellingham proved a lovely little place. We stopped to visit the 12thcentury St. Cuthbert’s Church, with its impressive vaulted stone roof. We couldn’t help but wonder how on earth the builders managed to lift such enormous stones into place so many centuries ago.
Finding our accommodation was easy – Fountains Café and B&B is just off the main street. After 15 miles on our feet it was bliss to stop walking, relax and freshen up before heading out for dinner at a local hotel. The food was excellent, and we rounded off the evening with a fun game of cards before heading back to prepare for the next day’s walk.
Day 3: Bellingham to Byrness
The day dawned brighter and warmer, and we set off on a long uphill climb out of Bellingham, passing the old railway station and heading onto the purple-heathered moors. Monty was full of mischief this morning, keeping us entertained by trying to push us into the long grass and ditches!
At Hareshaw House we paused to watch sheep being herded back up to the farm, the farmer and his dogs following on a quad bike. Not long after we stopped again – this time for Monty to tend to a blister. Out came the first aid kit and a plaster, and soon he was patched and ready to carry on.
Despite the guidebook’s warnings to prepare for a bleak and remote day, mostly our experience was quite the opposite. We really enjoyed the first half of the walk, especially up to Padon Hill. We made the short detour to the monument there, a perfect spot for a fabulous lunch provided by Fountains Cafe.
It was only after rejoining the main trail and descending into the forestry that the mood began to change. Once we hit the forestry track, the last miles seemed to drag, and we all began to feel a bit grumpy. I won’t lie – none of us enjoyed those last miles into Byrness, which felt as though they would never end.
That’s why it was especially wonderful to arrive at Forest View and receive such a warm welcome from Oli (pictured above with Laura). He quickly made us a pot of tea and over a friendly chat we learned many walkers also find that section hard on tired feet. It was comforting to know we weren’t alone!
Soon it was all forgotten as we settled into our triple room, where hot showers soothed weary bodies. Afterwards, we enjoyed a local beer at their little bar before sitting down for dinner. We shared a table with Will and Emily, who had been backpacking and camping along the Pennine Way, with just a few B&B nights to break things up. It was great hearing about their adventures.
Dinner was a delicious home-cooked meal of Haggis Stovie, which was a first for us. Traditionally made at the end of the week with all the left overs thrown into one big pot on the stove – hence the name Stovie – it was hearty and comforting, exactly what we needed.
We rounded of the evening with a game of Scrabble, before heading to bed, ready for a good night’s rest and excited for our first day walking in the Cheviot Hills.
Day 4: Bryness to Trows Farm
We had an early breakfast, which gave us plenty of time to pack our day sacks afterwards. No need to fully pack up today, as we were staying two nights at Forest View with our hosts picking us up later from Trows Farm. Oli advised adding around 30-45 minutes to our walking time from the previous day when planning for his 5pm pick up.
Before setting off, we said our goodbyes to Emily and Will, as this was their final day on the trail. Emily mentioned she had lost her hat the previous day and, since we would be retracing their steps, asked if we might return it to Forest View if we happened to find it. Monty immediately took on the mission with enthusiasm!
We left just after 8.30 and climbed steeply up through the boulders and pine trees to Bryness Hill. The bracken was high here, almost shoulder height in places. On the way up, we caught up with a couple carrying heavy packs – on their 67th walking day, having started at Lands’ End, and aiming to reach John o’Groats by the end of September. We were in awe of their epic journey. With only our light day sacks, we soon left them behind and gained a clear view of the Cheviot Hills stretching out in the distance.
After gaining some ground, ahead we could see the site of Chew Green Roman camp, marked on the OS map. As we reached the first boundary fence between England and Scotland, Monty spied Emily’s missing hat perched on a gatepost – mission completed!
At the Roman Camp, we made a short detour to wander around the earthworks. It was fascinating to explore, though we couldn’t imagine being posted to such a remote place, especially bleak in winter. The whole area bears evidence of Roman occupation, including Dere Street, a Roman road still visible heading north towards Edinburgh.
Following the stone-paved Pennine Way paths, we paused for snacks just before Beefstand Hill at 562m (1844ft), enjoying the wide views across the Cheviots. The slabs had been laid to cover the boggier sections, though in this dry summer the peat paths were firm and crisp. Many of the paving stones showed markings from their earlier life – most were recycled from abandoned mills.
Climbing towards Mozie Law at 552m (1811ft), we finally spotted some of the feral goats mentioned way back on the sign at Bryness Hill: three with huge horns, their presence confirmed by the strong smell of goat on the breeze!
Nearing Mozie Law and before the final top of the day, Windy Gyle, Monty suddenly realised he had lost his own hat. Having just found Emily’s, he wasn’t about to leave his behind – so off he ran, a full kilometre back along the trail. From our vantage point he quickly became a dot in the distance, giving Neil and me a welcome rest. Reunited with his hat, Monty returned at a jog, rewarded with some chocolate to fuel him up the last climb.
At 619m (2031ft), Windy Gyle, offered stunning views and we lingered a while, but before we got too chilled on the summit, we began the descent to Trows Farm, arriving on time for our 5pm pick up.
Oli was there as promised, and the drive back to Byrness gave us another chance to soak up the views. It was lovely to return to Forest View and put our feet up before dinner. That evening new walkers joined us at the table, and we swapped Pennine Way stories over another lovely meal. This time we most definitely earned pudding – the Thompson Brownie-o-meter rated them “best ever”!
We really enjoyed our two nights at Forest View. Listening to the owls hooting outside, we drifted off to sleep, well rested and ready for the final stage of the Pennine Way.
Day 5: Trows Farm to Kirk Yetholm
We said our goodbyes to Laura, pausing for a few photos outside before leaving. Oli loaded us into the minibus and drove us back to Trows Farm. On the way, a Merlin flew up in right in front of the van, giving us a wonderful view – a good spot for the day! We thanked Oli for the lift and set off back up the grassy track towards Windy Gyle. The hills were shrouded in mist, a very different sight from the day before.
Following the paved path, we decide to follow the full route to the highest point on the hills: The Cheviot itself, at 815m (2674ft). This stretch is usually very boggy, and the paving slabs had sunk at odd angles or rocked underfoot – much to Monty’s amusement! At the summit, we found plenty of walkers enjoying picnics, but the top was cold and damp with no view. We kept our lunch stop short, though just as we got up to leave the cloud suddenly lifted, revealing a full 360-degree panorama – a perfect reward before retracing our steps back to the Pennine Way.
We stopped to take a look inside Hen Hole mountain hut – a great refuge if the weather is bad, before carrying on towards The Schil 601m (1972ft), with its rugged rocky outcrops. After skirting Black Hag we opted for the higher route into Kirk Yetholm rather than the lower alternative. The path was more undulating than we expected, but it offered fine walking along the Scotland – England border. Eventually we dropped down away from the fence into Scotland, reaching the small carpark at Halfway House.
From there, there was still one last sting in the tail: a climb up the tarmac road before the trail finally descended to the village green of Kirk Yetholm and the Pennine Way end point at the Border Hotel. Eager to reach our accommodation, we continued on to Millhouse, where Claire gave us a wonderfully warm welcome. Removing our walking shoes at last, we relaxed over tea and biscuits in our beautiful room.
That evening we strolled through the cobbled street of nearby Town Yetholm for dinner at The Plough, where we enjoyed an excellent meal. We were pleased to see our friends walk in, who we met at Byrness the previous night – they had walked the full stage all the way to Kirk Yetholm in one day. We were very glad to have split the section over two days – the lifts had worked perfectly and allowed us to enjoy the hills at a gentler pace.
Day 6: Leave Kirk Yetholm for Greenhead and return home
We awoke to a beautiful morning of blue skies and sunshine. Claire and David were wonderful hosts, serving us a generous breakfast before we enjoyed a lazy morning. At 10am we checked out and climbed into our awaiting taxi back to Greenhead.
Everyone agreed it had been an incredibly enjoyable week. There was a real sense of achievement, and completing the walk together had created special shared memories. The route was a fantastic way to explore some of the north’s most beautiful and remote landscapes, rich in history yet offering a true sense of escape, especially on the wild and remote Cheviot Hills.
The trail had felt surprisingly quiet – one day we saw no one at all – though this may have been due to walking in a quieter month. Throughout the week, our accommodation had been excellent, with warm hospitality, great food, and the pleasure of discovering new places.
Did it make us want to walk more of the Pennine Way? Absolutely. We would love to explore more sections of the route and perhaps one day, when work no longer ties us down, take on the entire trail.
Inspired to walk the Pennine Way?
In addition to offering the entire 265 mile Pennine Way from Edale to Kirk Yetholm as one epic adventure, we have divided the trail into three more manageable sections. The first of these is the southern section from Edale in the Peak District to Horton in Ribblesdale in the Yorkshire Dales. Next up is the 104 mile central section from Horton in Ribblesdale to Greenhead in Northumberland. Finally, as you’ve been learning here, we have the northern section from Greenhead to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders. Email us at [email protected] or call 017687 72335 to speak to one of our walking holiday experts, and between us we’ll find the Pennine Way adventure that’s just right for you.
