Finding My Feet Again: Two Perfect Days on the Cumbria Way
By Sarah Bennett
Eighteen months ago I underwent spinal surgery, and since then, my approach to walking has changed. I now look for routes that are manageable but still fulfilling, and paths that remind me why I fell in love with walking in the first place, without pushing my recovery too far. This stretch of the Cumbria Way gave me exactly that, a taste of the wild and wonderful Lake District, with forests, fells, and peaceful valleys, all within reach.
The two-day route from the charming village of Coniston to the quiet beauty of Rosthwaite offered just the right blend of challenge and reward. I chose this bespoke itinerary close to home not only for its convenience but because it promised variety – steady inclines, tranquil woodlands, and the kind of spectacular Lakeland scenery that really lifts the spirit. For anyone seeking a shorter walking break that still delivers that deep sense of being immersed in Lakeland landscape, this section ticks all the boxes.
Coniston to Great Langdale
We set off after a delicious breakfast at the Yewdale Inn in Coniston, well-fuelled for our first day on the Cumbria Way. The trail began gently, winding through quiet woodland and past a series of small waterfalls, with the surrounding fells rising steadily around us. One of the early highlights was Tarn Hows, a tranquil spot nestled among woodlands with still waters reflecting the hills and trees around it.
As the landscape opened up near Elterwater, we stumbled upon a brilliant little self-serve café – essentially a shed, stocked with drinks, snacks, and even local ice cream. A perfect spot for a quick break in the sun, (Remember to take some cash with you). From there, the trail continued through a mix of woodland trails, riverside paths, and charming stone bridges.
There were a few ups and downs along the route, enough to get the legs working, but nothing too taxing. We were treated to an unexpected soundtrack along the way. First came the distant whistle from the Steam Yacht Gondola, then the unmistakable roar of RAF jets cutting through the sky overhead, briefly breaking the calm. As we entered the Langdale Valley, the towering Langdale Pikes appeared ahead, a spectacular sight, and a dramatic end to a rewarding first day’s walk.
Great Langdale to Rosthwaite
After another hearty breakfast and a warm send-off from the team at New Dungeon Ghyll, we set off on the next leg of our journey, a day that promised both dramatic scenery and a touch of adventure. The morning started gently, following a fairly flat, scenic trail through the Langdale Valley, flanked by soaring fells.
Before long, the terrain changed as we approached Stake Pass. The steady climb along the old stone packhorse route was short but rewarding, and at the top, we were met with a breathtaking panorama of the Langstrath Valley unfolding below. It was one of those rare moments when words fall short and the scenery does all the talking.
We found a perfect picnic spot beside a waterfall, where the only interruption to the peace was the sudden thunder of a fast jet flying low overhead – clearly the RAF had similar taste in landscapes.
The afternoon took us on a trail lined with waterfalls and a fair few stepping stones, which provided both fun and a bit of a challenge. One slippery stone caught me out, and I ended up with soggy, mud-caked feet – a small price to pay for the views and the experience.
Looking up at some familiar Wainwright fells along the way, we savoured every moment of the dramatic scenery. The final stretch brought us into the peaceful village of Rosthwaite, where The Langstrath Country Inn welcomed us with a cosy atmosphere, a well-earned pint, and a view that seemed almost too perfect to be real. All in all, another spectacular day on the Cumbria Way, and one I won’t forget in a hurry.
Final Thoughts
This two-day stretch of the Cumbria Way was everything I hoped it would be – manageable yet rewarding, peaceful yet dramatic, and with moments of both quiet reflection and sheer joy.
It reminded me that walking doesn’t have to be epic in scale to be deeply meaningful. Sometimes, the most memorable adventures are the ones closest to home, where familiar landscapes offer fresh perspective, and every step feels like a small celebration of being back on the trail.
We offer a range of holidays on the Cumbria Way. You can walk the whole route from Ulverston to Carlisle, enjoy a slightly shorter highlights option, or choose our Best of the Cumbria Way short break, concentrating on the more dramatic section between Coniston and Keswick. For further information and to book your Cumbria Way adventure email us [email protected] or call us on 017687 72335 to speak with one of our walking holiday experts.