Another Perfect Week on the Pembrokeshire Coast

By Shelley Watson

Last year I walked half of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Marloes to St Dogmaels with my mum. We loved it so much we went back to finish it this year.

Amroth to Manorbier

Our first day back on the coast path treated us to some varied terrain. We arrived in Amroth to the relaxing sound of waves over pebbles. The beach here gave me 1920’s vibes and I could almost see Dick Van Dyke in his striped one piece swimsuit about to enter the water. As it was high tide we left Dick Van Dyke and the beach and followed the clifftop woodland paths spying coves through the trees until we returned to the picture postcard town of Tenby with its rows of colourful buildings sandwiched between two large expanses of beach. The first beach we arrived at was a large inviting sheltered cove where last night’s swim event took place. I of course stopped to have my first swim of the holiday.

After my swim we walked past the colourful houses and the marina before dropping down to Tenby’s second large expanse of beach overlooked by an impressive castle and city walls.

The long expanse of beach took us to Giltar Point with fine views over to Caldey Island (luckily MOD weren’t firing). This also marked the start of a more rugged section of coast with an array of smaller coves, beaches and interesting rock formations and layers.

We opted to drop down to explore the beach by Lydtsep Caverns, also known as Ogof Caves. Low tide was on our side for this so we were able to explore the beautiful rock formations and caves. This beach had swell so instead of a swim I opted for a body surf and managed to catch a few good waves and ride them a fair way up the beach even without a board.

Further along there are still other excellent looking beaches that if we’d had more time would definitely warrant exploration too. For instance Church Doors/Shrinkle Haven is known for an impressive archway (this beach was extremely busy though), and then shortly after Presipe Beach which was completely deserted.

We then carried on past the MOD firing ranges, along thin inlet coves before reaching Manorbier another lovely bay being watched over by a castle.

Our accommodation for the night was at Castle Mead Hotel. A beautiful quiet setting and with views over the church and huge white tower.

Manorbier to Bosherston

After a delicious breakfast we were off and straight into the most strenuous part of the day. The route headed up and down along the layers of red sandstone topped green cliffs. We had woken to sea mist and looking down on the sea picked out the white caps of the swell only making it look like we were looking down on a river and not the sea. An excellent atmospheric start to our day.

As the sea mist started to clear Freshwater East beach became particularly inviting so I treated myself and my legs to my first swim of the day.

Then from here the scenery changed again to fantastic green cliffs and coves before we dropped down to Stackpole Quay. While mum indulged in a cake at the café I chose to treat myself with another swim in the flat, calm sheltered waters of the Quay.

A short walk further and we reached Barafundle Bay, hyped to be one of the best beaches on this section, with its clear water and swathes of golden sands backed by pine trees. Although beautiful it’s busy so much lower down on my favourite spots of the week, however it would have been rude not to have stopped for another swim.

Finally we were blown away with the sheer side limestone cliffs and rock formations around Stackpole Head and St Govan’s Head. Simply brilliant.

A great day and we were blessed with gorgeous weather so much so that I made time for one more swim choosing one of the many smaller secluded bays to the side of the lovely Broad Haven.

Finally we walked to our accommodation via the Lily Ponds. The vast stretch of the lily ponds is impressive and the small bridged walkways across them are picturesque. St Govan’s Head Inn was our home for the night. Good food, and a quiet country setting, lovely.

Bosherston to Angle

Again another mixed day. We were super lucky that the MOD weren’t firing (as it can often be closed mid-week out of school holidays). This allowed us to explore a really fabulous section of the coast. We started by visiting the pretty little St Govans Chapel which sits nestled down some steps in between the cliffs. With its own little rocky cove to view once you’ve popped out through arched doors to the other side.

Not much further along we reach the Huntsmans Leap a deep sheer sided chasm with a 3-4ft gap at it’s narrowest. Folk law suggests it has got its name from a huntsman who was bet to jump his horse across and after making the jump and turning round and seeing the chasm died of shock. It is not advised to make the leap although people have both roped and without safety equipment with varied success and is known to have at least one death.

Continuing on without making the jump we get to two great looking coves Bullslaughter Bay and Flimston Bay. Both I had wanted to visit for a swim but had hit them at high tide with the water starting to crash into the rocks at the edges of where the sandy beach would have started.

Bullslaughter Bay has many theories on the name origin from a cow with a comical moo to a shipwreck of bulls, to simply a rock feature.

We dropped down to the side of Flimston Beach on a grassy track to get a better view of the cove and found some easy rocks to scramble down at the end of the path to get not only a view of Flimston Bay but Elegug Stacks. This was a great detour and view point of the stacks and neighbouring cave. The cave had a large blow hole above that we explored on our return to the top. In choppy weather the bow hole would be a fantastic sight!

Slightly further on we get a different view point looking across and down on the heavily bird covered stacks before walking the last bit of this coast section to the impressive green bridge of Wales arch. Here we have to divert away from the coast path due to a section of MOD land that is always closed unless you have a guide.

The next 10k was easy walking inland either on road, through fields, on grassy tracks or grass covered dunes until we got to Freshwater West. After a long break from the coast the sea was a welcoming site. This beach is a popular surfer beach for its powerful currents feeding straight from the Atlantic. After reading about the beach online as well as seeing the warning info signs I knew this wasn’t a safe swimming beach due to its rip currents. Used to this from many visits to Cornwall I went in to do some body surfing keeping my feet firmly planted on the floor unless I was catching a wave back in. The powerful waves meant I got some good runs. A well needed cool off after a warm walk inland.

This beach also has a large grave marked by a large pile of pebbles and cross with socks attached. For those that may find this puzzling it is a film reference for a well-loved Harry Potter film series and marks the death of a fictional beloved house elf called Dobbie. The socks reference the elf being freed from a life of slavery by given an item of clothing (a sock). Many of the pebbles have been written on or drawn on so even if not a fan or have no knowledge of the film it still may be of interest.

Leaving the beach and Dobbie’s resting place we began the Headland section round to Angle West Bay. Today being one of the longer days this section will put your legs to its paces with another section of ups and downs. The sea mist had once again rolled in making for an atmospheric section passing the interesting named Sheep and Rat Island along with some fantastic folds and layers of red sandstone rocks and some more aches before turning the corner to look across at Milford Haven and its vast industrial jetty’s, and busy harbour. We then pass the ruins of an old gun emplacement before dropping down to the lovely calm and sheltered West Angle Bay. A great refreshment stop at the café along with a well needed cool off before the last stretch along fields and taking in the very different sites of the larger industrial ports along Milford Haven.

Angle to Pembroke

We had a leisurely start before jumping in a taxi with our super bubbly driver Tony who took us back to where we left off in Angle. We started along Angle Bay on a mix of roads, woodlands and fields looking at the colourful boats moored up on the flat calm water. It wasn’t long before we bumped into a gentleman relaxing at the edge of the bay. As we greeted each other he said we were the first people he’d seen that day and it’s his tradition to give a gift. He rummaged in his bag out popped two beautiful wooden bell ornaments. He’d hand turned them himself from locally sourced boat timber from Milford Haven. They were so lovely I assumed he must have been a past carpenter but to my surprise instead his previous career was exhuming bodies. A both lovely and interesting encounter and one that will stick with us, along with our new treasure.

Knowing this stretch around Milford Haven wasn’t going to have the same feel as the rest of the coast path due to it’s industrial nature I had rudely written this day off slightly. Too my delight it was actually very pleasant although the looming oil rig and power station are not necessarily pleasing to the eye they did bring a sense of interest into the history of the area.

We also found that for much of the day they weren’t the focus instead the large expanse of Milford Haven estuary or the country style walking through fields and woodland and the views of the industrial area often partly shielded from view.

After yesterday’s long hike with over 30k covered and breaks to swim today was a much shorter and easier day which meant we arrived into Pembroke not long after lunch. We took advantage of our additional time to explore Pembroke Castle.

Well worth a visit if you have time in your day to do so.

We then spent a second night in our lovely bright and spacious room with our super friendly hosts Shan and Colin at Tregenna B&B.

Pembroke to Milford Haven

We left Pembroke knowing this was going to be another more urban day and hadn’t set any expectations. Just like yesterday we were pleased with what a pleasant day we had. After leaving Pembroke itself we were straight into a lovely section of wooded Glen’s, leafy arched walkways and fields overlooking Milford Haven estuary.

On reaching Pembroke dock the route became more urban with a fair chunk of road walking. However many sections of road walking was not without its own charm or point of interest. Passing over Cleaddau Bridge gave you some great views down the estuary but even better was the view of rows and rows of sailing boats moored up snaking down the estuary from the second bridge.

After another lovely wooded section we popped out at the top of the quiet town of Neyland. The section through Neyland to Hazelbeach was filled with some lovely encounters. As we stopped to eat lunch in the sun looking over the estuary two locals popped over to chat to us, not only to offer a cold drink but to chat about the sailing boats, different docks and their longest sailing journey to the Canary Islands. The next lovely encounter was at Hazelbeach. A group of lovely ladies were gathering to swim. As I hadn’t had a swim on yesterday’s walk or indeed yet today I stopped to ask about the area. Instead of just telling us it was safe they invited us to join them. To my surprise my mum also took up the offer too (photo evidence was of course taken). It was a lovely break to cool off, swim and chat with the Hazelnuts open swimming group.

Both refreshed we set off again through wooded areas, leafy walkways and fields. These sections were broken up with crossing pipelines from a second vast oil refinery. Although an eyesore, we actually found it quite fascinating and oddly enjoyed walking through the industrial cages over them.

We then finished the day with more country walking until a last stretch of road walking to the impressive marina full of high end yachts.

Milford Haven to Dale

Today saw us start to leave the more urban area behind. After walking through green walkways and fields alongside the estuary and past one last section of oil pipes we arrived at Sandy Haven which was a welcome site. There is a small bridge to cross a small tidal channel that can only be done at low tide. We’d opted for an early start and a packed breakfast so we could make it across and arrived with more than ample time.

From here the route really began to get prettier again. The rocky outcrops and green clad small cliffs against the blue water made the bays and coves we past very inviting.

We opted to stop and explore Lindsway Bay. It was a good choice, it was not only very pretty and sheltered but we had it to ourselves. So inviting even that mum decided to join me again for her second swim of the holiday.

From here we continued round to The Gann where there was another tide crossing. It was later than our times had said we would be ok to cross but as the water had been so low at our previous crossing we wondered if it was a lower high tide and therefore maybe a slightly bigger window. To our delight our theory panned out and we also crossed this with ease avoiding yet another diversion away from the coast.

A short distance further and we arrived in Dale which was buzzing with people, paddleboarding, sailing, swimming, and relaxing. As we had started our day early, we were already here by lunch so decided to walk on a little further even though we will revisit the next section tomorrow.

We then headed round passing some beautifully green clad coves to Watwick Bay (suggested to us by the lovely Julie at Foxdale Guesthouse in Marloes). We could see why Julie suggested it … you arrived on the beach though an avenue of hedges to a small and secluded beach with a few sailing boats moored up. We instantly felt transported to the French Riviera or somewhere else exotic and upmarket. We relaxed here for a while bobbing around peacefully in the water before heading back to Dale For refreshments.

Still with time to spare in Dale I opted to test out the lovely bay here as well. A great place to do some lengths and finished the day with a 1k swim to burn off the last of my energy.

Dale to Marloes

Today we walked our last section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Dale to Marloes which was a lovely end to a fantastic and varied week.

We left Dale revisiting the leafy section overlooking red low crags and inviting bays. Castle Beach Bay was very tempting but I decided for another swim in Watwick Bay as it was so beautiful and sheltered. To my delight this time we got it all to ourselves, the water was again crystal clear and a gorgeous blue giving us Caribbean vibes.

After having a relaxing break here we headed on along rolling green paths and clifftop meadows past West Blockhouse and its three beacons equipped with lights, radar and foghorn used for position fixing and safe passage into Milford Haven. Then shortly after past Mill Bay another beautifully inviting cove. As I’d not long had a swim we instead admired it and the history behind it. Henry Tudor landed here in 1485 with 55 ships before marching and defeating Richard 3rd and becoming King Henry 7th.

From here we continued on round the peninsula with the coast becoming more precipitous with many small rock stack formations pocking out of the high water line until we reached the beautiful West Dale Bay. Very tempted to have a body surf but with no shelter from the wind for my mum who didn’t fancy battling the waves we decided to continue on across the cliffs.

The large stretch of Marloes Sands and different islands opposite greeted us. We chose to drop down to explore the beach here instead which is a must if you have time. Depending on the tides it’s either a vast beach or becomes several smaller bays (of course check you don’t become cut off). To our delight the beach was surprisingly sheltered from the wind and the sun also broke through the clouds as we explored the beach and small stacks. Mum then relaxed on the beach while I attempted some body boarding in the swell with various success. After a nice break we scampered back across the sand and between rock stacks to continue our walk around the peninsula. The peninsula varies between large slabs of slate to layers and folds or red sand stone. All exceptionally beautiful.

Last time we were here we were lucky to see seals but today there was too much swell to spot any. Make sure to keep your eyes peeled when you go though in case.

After another great day on the coast we headed back to our accommodation The Foxdale Guest House in Marloes. We had stayed here last year and were greeted like family. After a good night’s rest we had to say goodbye to the gorgeous coast here and head home, fortunate at least that our home is in the gorgeous Lake District.

Thinking about a walking holiday along the Pembrokeshire Coast? If you’re drawn to big skies, sweeping sea views and rocky headlands, we’d love to help you plan your perfect getaway. Email us at [email protected] or call 017687 72335 to speak to one of our friendly walking holiday experts. We’ll help you choose the pace and places that suit you best – so all you have to do is enjoy the walk.