A Walk on the Wild Side – Our John Muir Way Adventure

By Lynne Batey

When ‘Storm Floris’ decided to join us on the John Muir Way, we knew we were in for an adventure!

The full John Muir Way journeys for 135 miles from Helensburgh on the Firth of Clyde to Dunbar in East Lothian. Time restraints only allowed us five nights, so we opted for the 57 mile eastern section from South Queensferry to Dunbar. Steven and I set out, not just to follow in John Muir’s footsteps, but to soak up Scotland’s coast, countryside, and history over four glorious days of walking.

Before setting off, we learned a little about the man who inspired the route. John Muir was born in Dunbar and spent his boyhood exploring its coastline and countryside. At just eleven, he emigrated with his family from Scotland to America, eventually walking 1,000 miles from Kentucky to the Gulf of Mexico.

Muir famously said, “When I was a boy in Scotland, I was fond of everything that was wild. All my life I’ve been growing fonder of wild places and wild creatures.”

Arrival in South Queensferry

We travelled by train from near Carlisle to Edinburgh, then took a short hop to Dalmeny followed by a bus into South Queensferry. This historic town, with its cobbled streets, narrow vennels and crow-stepped gables, charmed us immediately.

From our bedroom window we gazed out at the mighty Forth Rail Bridge – a true emblem of Scotland. Completed in 1890, it was the longest cantilever bridge in the world at the time, and it remains an engineering marvel today. Its once constant need for painting gave rise to the phrase “like painting the Forth Bridge” – meaning a never-ending task. (A bit like my washing basket!)

South Queensferry to Edinburgh

The storm hit. We’d checked the forecast and had our Traveline details ready, but in the end, we pressed on.

Floris kept us company with every type of weather – wind at our backs, rain coming straight down, rain coming sideways, and glorious sunshine in between.

The route led us through the Dalmeny Estate, home to the Earl of Rosebery. Dalmeny House, a striking Tudor Gothic mansion, was unfortunately closed for renovations.

Leaving the coastal path, we passed through farmland and into the suburbs of Edinburgh. The houses here were stunning – plenty of “which one would you buy if you won the lottery?” moments.

We skirted Edinburgh Zoo, passed Murrayfield Stadium, and followed parkland and canal paths to glide into the city. We rounded off the day with cake and coffee at The Bonnie Barista overlooking The Meadows – the perfect first-day treat.

Edinburgh to Prestonpans (via Arthur’s Seat)

With a shorter mileage planned, we made a detour up Arthur’s Seat – Edinburgh’s famous extinct volcano. The climb took less than two hours and was well worth it for the incredible views of where we’d been and where we were heading.

Leaving the city behind on a cycleway, we made our way to Musselburgh, where we lingered over lunch and watched wildfowl on the River Esk before continuing on to Prestonpans. From here, a taxi whisked us to North Berwick for the first of two nights in the same guesthouse – a real luxury not to have to pack up every morning.

Prestonpans to North Berwick

Prestonpans grew on salt production, coal mining, and fishing. Today, its foreshore path is dotted with curious concrete anti-tank blocks – relics of WWII.

This stretch also felt like golf country. At times it seemed every turn in the path revealed another immaculate fairway running alongside us. From Musselburgh – the world’s oldest playing course – to Gullane’s championship links and on towards North Berwick, golfers were everywhere, silhouetted against the sea. We might not have been teeing off, but it often felt as though we were walking straight through the heart of Scotland’s sporting heritage.

The coastal walking here was a delight: sandy beaches, coastal grasslands, and car parks with handy public loos (and the occasional ice cream van). We passed through the pretty villages of Aberlady and Gullane, then enjoyed views of Fidra – now an RSPB reserve and said to have inspired Treasure Island.

North Berwick to Dunbar

We said goodbye to our hosts and resisted the climb up North Berwick Law – too much breakfast and 15 miles ahead of us!

Instead, we enjoyed woodland, riverside paths, and field edges up to Drylaw Hill, where the views stretched for miles.

John Muir Country Park, with its salt marsh, coast, grassland, and woodland, was alive with birdlife.

The Clifftop Trail led us to Dunbar through an archway with dramatic views of castle ruins, The Bathe (a Victorian wild swimming pool), and, finally, John Muir’s birthplace.

Why We Loved This Walk

This trip ticked all our boxes:

• Perfect daily mileage – averaging 14 miles per day

• Variety – coastal paths, woodland, and surprisingly enjoyable city walking

• Easy navigation – well-signed and straightforward

• Flexible side trips – Arthur’s Seat and North Berwick Law for those who want extra climbs

• Great transport links – excellent for using public transport, both trains and buses

We returned home well exercised, well fed, and well rested. Sometimes we chatted, sometimes we walked in companionable silence.

Being by the sea, spotting deer in woodland, and exploring Scotland’s mix of wild and urban landscapes – it felt like the perfect dose of Vitamin Sea.

If you’re looking for a walk that blends Scotland’s wild coast, city charm, and just the right amount of adventure, the John Muir Way might be calling your name. Just remember: pack for all weathers … and leave room for cake.

Thinking about a walking holiday along the John Muir Way?

If you’re drawn to wild coastlines, scenic towns, and a mix of urban and natural landscapes, we’d love to help you plan your perfect getaway. Email us at [email protected] or call 017687 72335 to speak to one of our friendly walking holiday experts. We’ll help you choose the itinerary that suit you best – so all you have to do is enjoy the walk.